The author samples
the Bang Bang Shrimp.
Finding fresh fish in the desert has always been problematic for Las Vegans. Personally, I don't take much comfort from knowing that things could be worse. The New Testament tells us that a full scale miracle was necessary to provide loaves and fishes for a gathering of 5000 in "a desert place": presumably the refrigerated rail car had yet to be invented.
Nowadays, however, everything from Alaskan halibut to mahi-mahi which just yesterday were swimming merrily about tropical reefs can be flipped into a boat, iced and jetted posthaste into McCarran on its way to your corner table at Bonefish Grill which (hurrah and finally!) has opened a local outlet in Henderson.
I'd heard very good things about Bonefish Grill's flagship eateries in Florida (restaurateurs Tim Curci and Chris Parker opened their first in St. Petersburg in 2000). The company has only recently ventured into western states. Of course coming up with a plateful of fresh Gulf Grouper or Atlantic Swordfish in St. Pete is quite another story than conjuring one in Vegas.
Gulf Stream surprise!
Ahi Tuna above,
Mussels Josephine, below.
Any skepticism was quickly overcome, however, with the first bite of spicy Bang Bang Shrimp — the Grill's signature appetizer — and a couple of sautéed Crab Cakes. Also passed around the table were first course offerings of Ahi Tuna Sashimi (wasabe!) and Crispy Calamari (opa!).
Other items on the starter list I've left for next time include Prince Edward Island Mussels Josephine, Atlantic Sea Scallops and a variety of other shrimp concoctions. If you happened to prefer soup or salad for openers, the Clarn Chowder with Lump Crab goes down warmly. The house chopped salad garnished with kalamata olives and Romanian feta will pucker you up for what's to come.
What came next for me was fish grilled simply—the way I prefer it—with an unobtrusive lemon butter sauce. The Alaskan Halibut was delectably moist and flaky. I got some "table tastes" of Gulf Grouper and Chilean Sea Bass. Both were first rate with the variety of sauces Bonefish sets out with all its grilled fish entrees—warm mango salsa, spicy Asian, and “virgin” Mediterranean.
Fresh Cobia, above,
Lobster Thermadore, below
If you prefer your fish sautéed Bonefish offers Pistachio Parmesan Crusted Rainbow Trout, Grouper Piccata, and Diablo Shrimp Fettuccine. Then there are a half dozen daily specials, some of which feature the restaurant's savory Rockefeller and Thermidor sauces.
The food and drink menu at Bonefish Grill is extensive. The wine list is dominated by a good choice of Californias. As an aperitif you might want to explore one of the fruity Martinis (everything from pomegranate to raspberry and sour apple).
There are grilled steak, chicken and chop entrées for those in a landlubber frame of mind. The fish portions with sides (au gratin or garlic whipped potatoes, angel hair marinara, rice or vegetable medley) will satisfy a sturdy hunger. Desserts are few (crème brulee, key lime pie, brownie cake) but who has room? Well, I did have to sample the key lime pie so as not to disappoint the waitress.
Henderson Bonefish Grill,
near Las Vegas.
Bonefish Grill at 10839 S. Eastern in Henderson is open for dinner only (M-Th 4-10:30; F-Sat 4-11:30; Sun 4-10). The bar stays open late. In fact, therein lies a delightful possibility for pre or post meal imbibing, what with the twelve varieties of martinis, plenty of domestic and foreign beers and the aforementioned wine cellar featuring a good fifty vintages by the glass or bottle.
The rich nautical decor (plantation blinds, polished oak floors, fans and plenty of dark wood) is styled "polished casual" by managing partner Toby Fox, who presides with justifiable pride over this welcome refuge from hot summer winds off the Mojave.
Entrées average around $15. Dinner for two, with wine, figure on $60-$75.
Reservations: (702) 228-3474. Also check out the informative website at www.bonefishgrill.com
— Feature by Jerry Nemanic, Jetsetters Magazine Las Vegas Food and Entertainment Editor.