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In Los Angeles it seems all waiters in fine restaurants are awaiting their big break as actors; in Las Vegas it seems that all the waiters and captains have advanced college degrees — and that is what is making the Strip one of the hottest dining areas in the world. Editor's Note: Lutece is no longer operating at the Venetian.
It is so refreshing to not only dine in style, but also to carry on philosophical discussions with the captain of our table — so is the case with our wonderful experience at Lutèce, inside the Venetian Resort and Casino, the only restaurant in the hotel facing the Strip and overlooking the Grand Canal. Our captain, Jason, is a pleasurable and congenial young man, recently married, working on his PhD in Philosophy and Ancient Civilizations, so naturally the gamut of the conversation ranges from the recent Aristotle scroll high tech computer deciphering to wine from ancient Rome.
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Fine dining on the patio overlooks the
Grand Canal at the Venetian Resort.
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We start the evening with Evian water but Lutèce (loo - tess) offers Pellegrino sparkling water as well, which we follow with a modestly priced bottle of Brouilly Beaujolais Cru, Chateau de la Chaize, ’02 (or at $11 a glass), made from pure Gamay grapes. According to Jason, it is one of the few red grapes that should be slightly chilled, like most white wines.
Lutèce is one of two Ark restaurants in the Venetian Resort, and it has one of the best wine selections in Las Vegas, in a town with some of the best cellars in the world. The extensive wine menu includes crisp white blends, unusual Syrahs (even a petit Syrahs), extensive champagnes, prestige Cuvees, Meritage/Proprietary varietals, and even rare finds like Saint Estephe and Saint Julien and Saint Emilion and Puiseeguin Saint Emilion. The most expensive bottle in their line-up is probably the Chateau Mouton Rothschild ’82 at $2400 a bottle.
Our celebrity chef of the evening, Andre Becker, recommends, as does Jason, the five course tasting menu that begins with an appetizer of Scottish Smoked Salmon on Baby Frisee Salad, and Citrus Crème Fraiche Vinaigrette ($16); the freshest I have had since I left the Celtic isles.
Next up is the first course in the five course presentation: Aussie Tuna (Ahi Tuna “Mille Feuille”) plated sashimi fashion with 1/8 inch Granny Smith slice separations, with a garnish of Argan Oil ($17). Another choice could have been Fois Gras with Smooth Lentil Cream Sauce, (seared Fois Gras and Green Lentils “Du Puy Puree" — $19).
The second course of the evening: Classic Lobster Bisque ($14), with the chef adding Lobster Oil with a garnish of fresh cayenne pepper and a Roulade infusion of scallops. Another choice could have been the Chilled Bell Pepper and Tomato Soup with Crab Cocktail ($12), or a more expensive choice, the Russian Beluga Caviar “AAA” at market price.
The third course: Star Anise Crested Sea Scallops — two scallops at about an ounce each sautéed in butter and garlic with herbs placed on a cloud of celery root puree with lemongrass and orange reduction ($31). Another outstanding choice could have been Dover Sole Meunière (Veal Demi-Glace Sautéed Bok Choy, and Lemon Confit — $40).
The fourth course is the entrée of Sautéed Beef Tenderloin (Rossini Style) — four ounces of tenderloin cooked to temperature — Chef Andre recommends medium rare, with a ½ medallion of fois gras and a drizzle of black truffle and merlot, coming with a side of Potato Croquettes, making their arrival in a cute, small personal cast iron pot with little handles, keeping the spud pinky fingers bursting hot ($38).
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Other finely designed Lutèce entrées include:
Farm Raised Chicken (Cocotte Style — $29)
Roasted Muscovy Duck (Peking-Style — $29)
Pepper-Crusted Rib Eye ($36)
Grilled Colorado Rack of Lamb ($39)
Pan-Roasted Squab ($31)
Milk Fed Veal Chop ($41), or:
Braised Beef Short Rib ($30).
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The final fine dining endeavor is the Verona Chocolate Mousse Cake with hardened shell. No woman alive can deny this delicacy – nor any man!
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Grilled Colorado Rack of Lamb,
with Potato Confit, Marinated Olives,
Madeira Jus - $39
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Originally out of New York City, Lutèce opened four years ago (2001) at the Venetian Resort (the New York venue is closed), and designed and blueprinted for two stories (but now Vivid Night Club is upstairs). The fashionable (A metallic faux teakwood swirls across the main room.), contemporary restaurant — no 90 degree angles anywhere — has seen a series of celebrity chefs, including David Faye and Gustav, the principal Lutèce owner, and now Andre Becker.
Lutèce, which is the ancient name of Paris, France, is an intimate cubbyhole of a restaurant, with only 18 tables in the main room where we watched from a small alcove the glorious sun setting across the Strip; there are also 16 tables in the private salon and 16 patio tables that are perfect with the right night temperatures.
Lutèce is open Monday through Sunday for dinner. Reservations are highly recommended; please call: 702/414-2220: Fax: 702/414-2221; lutecelv@arkrestaurants.com
For large groups or wedding receptions, Venetian Resort guests may want to consider another Ark of Las Vegas restaurant — The Tsunami Asian Grill & Sushi Bar, which is also an intimate dining venue.
In October of 2002 Chef Florence Duff took over the reigns as Executive Chef at Tsunami and she has reinvented the menu to create a unique sampling of a true Pan-Asian experience.
We get a warm greeting from restaurant General Manager, Lia Rispoli, who is from the Philippines, as is Duff. With her ancestry mixture of Filipino and Irish background, Duff was at the age of six determined to become a world-class chef, after-all, her family had just moved to the San Francisco Bay area, the innovator of Asian-American cuisine.
Duff assumed the responsibilities of preparing meals for a family of six to help out her mother, whom she credits for giving her the strength and knowledge behind her cooking talents. Her passion for cooking grew as she developed a palette for international cuisine, often inviting her friends and family to sample her creations.
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The tri-level Tsunami Asian Grill
Can seat up to 600 for events.
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Prior to moving to Las Vegas in 2000, Duff worked for a number of well-known kitchens in the Bay Area, including her own, Café Florence, located in the Peninsula District. Café Florence was a success and was recognized by the San Francisco Chronicle, The Country Almanac, and the Palo Alto Weekly. In 1994 Duff started working at Evvia Estiatorio and soon after at Kokkari, a sister restaurant. For six years she developed a passion for creating Greek/Mediterranean specialties. With her ethnicity and her professional training Duff combined the different flavors and cooking techniques to create her own unique style of cuisine. Ready for a new challenge Chef Duff packed her knives and moved to Las Vegas and then took over the Heart of the House at Tsunami Asian Grill.
As the Executive Chef at Tsunami Asian Grill her creativity for blending the flavors of Japan, China, Korea, Thailand, and the Philippines are endless. Her signature dishes include the Seafood Curry, Ravioli, Honey Walnut Prawns, Braised Five Spice Short Ribs, and the Crispy Imperial Rolls.
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Tsunami Asian Grill
Hours:
Sun.-Thurs. 11 a.m. – 11 p.m.
Fri,, Sat. 11 a.m. – Midnight
Events available for up to 600
702/414-4840
liarispoli@arkvegas.com
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I must state that the best Calamari that ever came across my palate was whipped up at Tsunami, dipped in a tangy/spicy zing, and the calamari was not rubbery whatsoever. My Mahi Mahi steak was seared beyond eye ball rolling ecstasy.
Tsunami is also known for its acclaimed sushi bar, with a reasonable priced menu, including appetizers such as Ahi Tuna Tartar and Chef’s Signature Crispy Imperial Rolls filled with shrimp, pork, and crab, served with a Sweet and Sour Chili Lime Sauce.
You’ll also find a host of noodle and rice dishes, along with Las Vegas’ best traditional Sushi Makimonos and Nigiri to go along with an extensive offering of wines, specialty cocktails, and sake.
I certainly enjoyed the sake presentation. A card about the size of a postcard is set before me with three circles. A small sake bottle is placed on each circle with a brief descriptipn of each sake to be sipped from left to right.
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Here we go:
#1. — Momokawa Pear Infusion — Asian pear infusion to lend a naturally sweet edge, similar to a Riesling or Pinot Gris. Excellent with pork or poultry.
#2. — Momokawa Black Raspberry Infusion — Raspberry flavor gives this sake a bolder edge, more body like a red wine. Excellent with shellfish, pork, or poultry.
#3, My favorite — Gekkikan Haiku — slowly fermented at lower temperatures to draw out maximum flavor. Slightly dry with fresh green apple flavors. Excellent with light fish and shellfish dishes.
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A unique spirit is reflected in the restaurant's design and muraled walls with poetic imagery created by artist Rebecca Mendez. The Pan-Asian cuisine and the acclaimed sushi is served throughout the tri-level restaurant, designed by architect Thom Mayne, Morphosis. The opportunities are endless amid the multiple levels and unique décor, making Tsunami the ideal location for receptions and events with an international flair.
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By Kriss Hammond, Editor, Jetsetters Magazine.
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