Next morning, I'm way ahead of the activities director. Each evening when you turn in, you'll find a freshly made stateroom, a chocolate on the pillow and a print out of the next day's itinerary. You have the option for shore excursions, or to remain on board. I must admit that our now seasoned travelers were always raring to go, to experience the next stage of the historic journey.

Captain Kitt next docked near Walla Walla, Washington where we were met again by shore side coach services. Our party departed inland to the Walla Walla Valley, with the first stop the Whitman Mission. In 1836, Marcus and Narcissa Whitman traveled west to the Walla Walla Valley to homestead and teach the Protestant faith to the Cayuse Indians. Although other missionaries were dispatched and had success with neighboring tribes, such as the Nez Perce, the Whitman's did not. After 12 years of supposed harmony between the missionaries and the Indians, the Cayuse attacked Whitman mission.

Whitman was also a doctor. During an outbreak of measles, Whitman tried desperately to attend to the ailing Indians. Unfortunately, unbeknownst to Whitman, the Indians immune system wouldn't allow a cure and half the tribe was lost. According to Cayuse custom, the medicine man befalls the same result as his patient, thus the murder and an end to Marcus and Narcissa Whitman.

Stories such as these abound on the Columbia and Snake River cruise. History unfolds mile after mile, your crew and tour directors continually reliving the events that molded the region many years before.

From the Whitman Mission, we went inland to visit the Fort Walla Walla museum. In its earliest times, this valley was so fertile that it was literally the hotbed of production for potatoes, grains, fruits, asparagus, and the famous Walla Walla sweet onion. Recently, grape vineyards add to the list of successful agricultural crops. The fort is a museum dedicated to over 100 years of history. Spend time and admire the men and women who were part of the great migration Westward.

Then it is an anticipated stop for lunch at the Columbia Crest Winery and a special working tour and wine tasting arranged by our CruiseWest and Columbia Crest hosts.

Our motorcoach brought us closer and closer to the acres and acres of grape vineyards spreading in all directions. We were informed by our tour guide, Ms. Casey, who also doubled as the Discovery's bartender, that most of the harvest is protected from strong winds by fast growing poplars around the perimeter. Soon enough, we found ourselves at the winery itself. On first glance, you would have thought that our driver had us lost and we'd somehow arrived in France.

All around, smoked glass windows decorated the winery walls. The courtyard was cobblestone, the roof was tile and the construction was a stucco and beam. We were surrounded by Olde world, European styling. We were met inside by our hosts and seated for a huge foyer luncheon and wine tasting. Let the party begin.

From the cellars of Columbia Crest, we were first introduced to their award winning Semillon-Chardonnay. Next came a merlot, then a couple of cabernets. Don't despair, we received a scrumptious gourmet lunch that continued with wine samplings. A Johannesburg Riesling, a tasty Gamay Beaujolais, Sauvignon Blanc, the Crest Reserve Pinot Noir came next. For an after dinner wine, a wonderfully sweet Muscat Canelli dessert wine. At the conclusion of our luncheon we took the Columbia Crest tour around the grounds.

Columbia Crest has 2150 contiguous acres, with 19 of them underground, where the tour descends into the lower level. We were joined by one of the chief winemakers for a brief but informative lesson on fermentation and blending. Discussion centered on the art of cooperage. Since we were literally within a sea of barrels, it was natural to have a lengthy discussion comparing French to American coopers. The next time I plant flowers in an old oaken barrel I will know that half a barrel is $400, or $800 for the entire barrel.

There is so much more that can be said because wine making is a story in itself. Doug Gore brought his California wine making experience to Washington State in 1982 and has received numerous awards. Of the many reasons why you should try Columbia Crest wines, one stood out in my mind. Their vineyards, which are well north of California, thrive at the same latitude, above the 46th parallel, as the finest French wine growing regions. As they say at Columbia Crest, "being one of the best isn't just attitude, it's latitude".

After the one day Walla Walla Valley education, I had greater respect for our ancestors.

I snapped a few photos, we all boarded our time coaches and headed for the Spirit of Discovery. For some reason, prior to dinner and after our tour of the winery, there just didn't seem to be as big a turnout at happy hour. I can't really blame my fellow explorers for feeling a little wine weary and fuzzy.

NORTHWEST PIONEERS

Heather regaled us with a fantastic after dinner story about J. Harlan Bretz, a captivating early day geologist, scientist and explorer, who spent a lifetime, spanning almost 90 years, studying Northwest geology. Recognition for his work, some 70 years later, came after his death. I suggest viewing the onboard film, "The Great Floods, Cataclysms of the Ice Age" or reading "Cataclysms On The Columbia", by John Elliott Allen and Marjorie Burns. You won't be disappointed.



We've now sailed back from the high desert and into the beautiful and heavily forested mountains of the Colombia Gorge. The next day our shore party is off for sightseeing in the city of Hood River, known for its agriculture. The continuous wind currents funneling through the gorge offer big air for windsurfers and kite surfing.

We visit the Columbia Gorge Discovery Center, a modern museum, detailing the geological history of the Columbia River Gorge, and fitting nicely with the previous evening geology discussion. I now had a fair grasp of the geology, the Native Americans, and our early explorers. But nothing prepared me for the next stop, the famous Merryhill Museum.

MARYHILL MUSEUM

Set high upon a mountainside, overlooking the Columbia River, Samuel Hill built his majestic mountain mansion. With tremendous resources at his disposal, he acquired several thousand acres, left his socialite wife back East, and built, he hoped, their dream home. Naming his residence after his daughter Mary, it was many years before he convinced his loving wife to visit their new utopian farm town. Alas, she stayed but a short while later returned to the bright lights of the Eastern seaboard. Sam Hill's close friend, Queen Marie of Romania, traveled half way around the world in 1940 to dedicate the home as a museum. Today, you'll find an eclectic collection, including Rodin sculptures, Russian artistry and jewels from the great ruling European families. Many other exhibits rotate seasonally through the museum. A visit to the grounds of Maryhill will be one long remembered.

ASTORIA AND FORT CLATSOP

We spent the next morning visiting the historical town of Astoria. We moored alongside the Columbia River Maritime Museum on the docks used by passenger services. The museum houses the most extensive collection of maritime history in the entire Northwest. I have researched maritime history in the Carolina's, Virginia, and Maryland's Chesapeake Bay and off the Cape at Nantucket Island and Martha's Vineyard. I suggest that the Astoria maritime exhibits are the best, with stories of real heroes.

Astoria is a seafaring town. Even today, Lloyds of London considers the mouth of the Columbia River the most dangerous body of water to insure. From the first settlers, it was established that the mouth of the Columbia River would be integral to future trade and travel. Financed by John Jacob Astor, Astoria opened as a fur trading post. From then on it was no accident that industry and the trades created the once thriving marketplace of Astoria.

Today, with closed canneries, the community has turned to tourism as a staple. Astoria offers local flavor restaurants. The early construction of homes and the downtown still exhibit the flair and community of decades past. I spent several hours browsing waterfront shops and throughout the downtown. Every shop and each Astorian I met pealed back pages of local history.. Eventually my time coach was summoned and I was transported once again back to the days of Lewis and Clark.

Within a short drive, our exploration brought us to Fort Clatsop, named for the local, but now extinct Indian tribe. The final lodging of the Lewis and Clark expedition is surrounded in stately pine forests along the Pacific coast, a beautiful tribute to these long ago explorers. After cruising mile after mile of their recorded route, I now have nothing but respect for this courageous band of men and woman and one big Newfoundland dog that forged their way into the unknown. At Fort Clatsop, pictures, sights, and films reenact the expedition. In fact, when these men walked back into St. Louis, Missouri three years after their departure, the young country was shocked. They had long been given up for dead. Their recorded diaries and drawings of the flora and fauna along their route charted the beginnings of a new country.

I've got to tell you, if it had not been for CruiseWest and this wonderful opportunity to experience this journey, I would not appreciate the greatness of these men's courage and witness for myself the hardships and sacrifice that molded this part of our country.

CANNON BEACH

Now, back to the future once again, as we make our last stop at Cannon Beach, Oregon. We've seen all types of country and the history that made it all possible in the previous days but now how about a little current history. Cannon Beach is a popular seaside community set along the Pacific Ocean, catering to artists and visitors. Opened for business in 1846, Cannon Beach brings you right back to the 21st century. Out of nowhere, alongside huge volcanic seascapes such as Haystack Rock and The Needles, a beautiful seaside village is carved out of the lush forests and sandy beaches. Every imaginable form of art gallery and boutique, restaurant and café adorn this quaint little village along the coast.

After the last several days, it was like a dream to be seeing all of the beautiful exhibits in the many storefronts. I wanted to buy everything. I'll save you some time and apprehension, the goods are great and the prices are even better in Cannon Beach. The seaside summer rentals are reasonable and I could see myself kicking back and retiring for a few summer months along the seashore. You may want to bookmark this quaint little place into your travel plans.

It appears that our journey is coming to a close. Chef Jeremy and the entire crew prepared a wonderful last Captain's dinner aboard the Spirit of Discovery, right down to the final crème de brouleé. Then new friends said their goodbyes.

Captain Kitt, said it best: "Thank you for joining myself and our crew and letting us do what we simply love to do. You don't have to travel like Lewis and Clark, when you can just cruise west with CruiseWest!."