Continued from Historic River Cruises . . . By now, I'm getting used to Heather, the ship's activity director, and her silky voice coming over the morning P.A. system at 7:30 a.m. Her job is to politely awaken the passengers, announce breakfast is served, and then clue us in on the day's experience.

Nevertheless, I was usually most appreciative and even more so today — we had a special guest speaker this morning. The Nez Perce tribal leader and poet laureate, Mr. Phil George, joined our troop in full ceremonial dress. After another fine breakfast by Chef Jeremy and his galley staff, the history of the "Real People" captivated us.

The term Nez Perce was originally given to the Indians by the French, because of their pierced noses. We heard about the great Chief Joseph, who led the Nez Perce on a grueling march into Canada to save his people. The stories that Mr. George passed along about the Oregon Trail, Lewis and Clark, and the coming of the white settlers were all from the "Real Peoples'" history, shared from first beginnings, up to how the Nez Perce managed in current times. Mr. George answered questions, finishing with a poem, sharing the pride and honor of the "Real People".

After the presentation, I joined the crew at Beamer's Landing for a 70-mile jet boat ride up the Snake River, deep into "Hell Canyon", the deepest canyon in North America!

Ever ride on a custom-made $200,000 jet boat with three 464 cubic inch Ford turbocharged engines? Here's your chance. Do I have your attention yet? When I stepped off Discovery, I looked at two of the sharpest and sturdiest looking riverboats I'd ever seen. I wondered what Lewis and Clark would have given for these babies. The Louisiana Purchase perhaps. Naw, the boats cost more.

The anodized diamond-plate aluminum river chargers were 45' in length with a 15' beam. Each held 45 wide-eyed adventurers, including crew, drew about 8 inches and raced at 35-40 mph. When traveling the winding and bending, aptly named Snake, I found upriver was south and downriver was north.

On this day, we were blessed with two captains, introduced as Butch and his captain-in-training, Eric. Now, I was really feeling confident. A river named Snake, with Class 3 and 4 rapids, in a canyon named HELL, and I needed two Captains! As I motored into the headwaters of the Snake, I hoped I'd not experienced my last supper the previous evening. I was just getting to like Chef Jeremy's surprise each night. Oh well, away from the frying pan and into the fire of Hell Canyon.

Once into the canyon, Butch opened up the turbo charged craft, flattening those Class 3 and 4's into puddles. I was drooling to come back someday and hit this same river in a raft or canoe, much like our early explorers. What a great ride. I was on the lookout for wildlife, especially bighorn sheep. Butch was more occupied with drift fisherman. We blew by them as if they were anchored.

I stood on the stern platform above the engines, barely catching the amplified hunting and fishing conversation with Captain Eric. Butch sat at the center console, driving like a Vietnam gunboat pilot. Whenever the river allowed, he slowed the vessel to expound on the geological formations and petroglyphs, or to point out wildlife.

We swept into a marina for a snack on the Snake. Some of our party hit the gift store. There's always a gift store, even in Hell Canyon. Let me assure you though, this was the last one. From here on, anything from previous lumber hauling paddle wheelers, to jet boats traveled at their own risk. The gift store walls were covered with pictures of turn-of-the-century miners and lumberman attempting to tame the illusive Snake.

Mekong Butch, as I called him, drove us into the worst whitewater after the tourista stop, in a section of narrow winding forks leading to an old hunting lodge. Lumber and essentials were brought in by river, the only way in or out. We had a lunch waiting when we arrived. Once again, CruiseWest in conjunction with Beamers Landing, had thought of everything, including bathrooms and hot coffee, which by now I needed both badly and respectively.

On the way back down the upriver current, I focused on the wildlife. Flocks of Canadian geese flapped next to the boat at about 35 mph; ring neck pheasants strutted along the shore, osprey circled overhead (an eagle family member), along with blue herons and golden eagles. I even saw a fellow that really threw me, a white pelican.

You want to go terrestrial? How about Rocky Mountain bighorn sheep at the water's edge, otters playing on the shoreline, and mule deer grazing or grabbing a necessary drink. This is the kind of country for black bears, cougars, bobcat, and elk. The Hell Canyon area is a research area for breeding bighorns.

If that wasn't enough, how about when we pulled back into the first marina, a.k.a. the gift store, just in time to witness Cookie making his second cast from the dock. He landed a 12-pound steelhead. I heard more than one passenger mention he'd be returning to dip a line. It was a great day to be alive and one I'll never forget.

Once Captain's Butch and Eric returned us to the quiet comfort of Discovery, Captain Kitt and crew commenced an about face from Lewiston and Clarkston. You can only progress up the Columbia River so far with a vessel the size of the Discovery.

Beamers Landing has many other exceptional tours in Hell Canyon, including fishing, lodges, rafting, hunting, one day or multiday, and group tours. You can take a Jetboating Adventure without a cruise on the Columbia River. Contact Beamer's Landing at 1-800-522-6966 . Important: Obtain boarding pass 1 day prior at office: 1451 Bridge St. Clarkston WA. For more info on these jetboating tours log on: http://www.hellscanyontours.com/
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