Kalaekilohana: Stay Hawaiian, Feel Hawaiian

Think Hawai’i is one big cliché — grass skirts and mai tais? Or maybe you’ve stayed at the big tourist resorts, and you know the real Hawai’i is out there – calling to you. What if you could learn to make fresh flower leis, speak a few words of Hawaiian, and hear stories of aloha? We did just that at Kalaekilohana Bed & Breakfast, near South Point, in Ka’u, on the Big Island of Hawai’i

Ka Lae: The Forehead at South Point

When South Seas Polynesians left their homes and sailed north, they most likely landed near South Point, both the southern most part of Hawai’i, and the United States, too. Archaeologists have found settlements that date to the 8th century AD/CE. That time frame coincides with Hawaiian oral history and with chanted family genealogies. Early Hawaiians named the place Ka Lae, which means “the point or promontory.” While there are many other places that use this term, it is only used alone to identify this culturally significant southern tip of the 1,600-mile-long island chain.

Ka Lae lies in the district of Ka’u (pronounced “KAH, oo”), which encompasses Hawaii Volcanoes National Park and some of the last unspoiled wilderness in Hawaii. Here you can see miles and miles of undeveloped shoreline, recovering rainforest, and find some of the kindest hospitality.

Kalaekilohana B&B: Luxurious Hawaiian Hospitality




Kalaekilohana B&B at South Point.

Our home base for exploring Ka’u was Kalaekilohana B&B. When Hawaiians make fabric, they beat tough plant fibers into soft cloth called “kapa.” The top piece of kapa is highly decorated, representing the finest work of the artist, and is called a “kilohana.” The word has come to mean the best of the best in general. So our B&B name means The Best of the Best of South Point. It’s a tall order, and one our hosts, Kenny Joyce and Kilohana Domingo, filled with ease.



Your hosts, Kenny and Kilohana.

The approach to the house is an impressive quarter mile driveway up from the main road. Kilohana & Kenny greeted us from the deep, cool lanai (porch) in cheerful aloha shirts and big aloha smiles. We had planned to jet off to South Point, but instead found ourselves approaching Hawaiian speed – slow. I found myself curled up on the daybed on the lanai with a book and a drink, and later chatting with the innkeepers.

We went to dinner “in town” – in Na’alehu, at Hana Hou restaurant. Don’t expect cosmopolitan presentation and service. But the food was quite delicious and there was plenty for leftovers the next day. Not that we needed leftovers, our breakfast was so large and hearty. But I won’t leap ahead.

Scrabble, Anyone?

“The whole point of Kalaekilohana,” Kenny says one evening, “is for every guest to feel Hawaiian hospitality. Aloha is not something that sits in a museum. It is something that must be experienced.”



Spacious and airy bedrooms.

To feel Hawaiian, you need to feel like family, like ‘ohana', and that’s just how we felt from the moment we walked in the door. We took off our shoes at the door just as Kenny and Kilohana do. We joined them for a sunset cocktail – part of their daily ritual. We played several wicked games of Scrabble over our visit, and learned a house game called Speed Scrabble. My husband and I curled up in a corner for a few Cribbage games, too.

Our room was spacious with a king bed and a day bed for napping (or for additional guests) with sunrise views of the ocean and mountains. Linens are fine and the bathrobes, luxurious. You won’t run out of pillows or towels. The bathroom has a fun ceiling mounted showerhead, so it was like having a warm rainstorm to bathe in. Care and craftsmanship are in every corner and cranny, and the house is alive with aloha spirit. And it should be since Kenny and Kilo spent several years building the house themselves, from the plumbing to the elegant window trim.

We slept well to the sound of the winds in the pines. Yes, pines. In Hawaii.

Sustenance for the Day




A breakfast fit for a big Kahuna.

Breakfast was as delicious (ono, as the locals say) and wonderful as an 4-star meal, but with the added bonus of eating in our jammies and slippers. Kenny is the consummate chef and host. One morning he made us eggs to order with organic chicken and apple sausage, brown rice and local fruits. Another morning, I was treated to gluten-free waffles; I almost never get to eat pancakes and waffles because of an allergy to wheat and other grains. Kenny chided me a little for not calling ahead and letting him know. He would have been delighted to make me something special. Kenny is happy to accommodate any dietary need from a religious ban on snake-shaped food (really!) to avoiding simple things like mushrooms.

Walking Tour of South Point




The wet side of South Point.

We decided to spend the day exploring the Ka Lae (South Point), and Kenny and Kilohana equipped us with a map of the area and a self-guided historical walking tour that they are continuously updating. We saw views of the sea cliffs that give Ka Lae that lands end feeling, a sacred fishing heiau (HAY-ow) or religious platform, and ancient mooring holes where fishermen launched their boats in old times.

Walking out to the actual southernmost point, you’ll find wonderful tide pools for poking around. But keep an eye on the ocean. This point is where two powerful current converge, and unexpected large waves are common enough that it’s worth mentioning. Further up the coast are several ancient burial sites, still considered sacred. From there, we walked up to Lua  o Palehemo. “It is said that you have not seen Ka’u until you have been to this spot, where you can see both leeward (dry side) and windward (wet side) shores rise up to meet Mauna Loa,” Kenny said. Breathtaking is one word that comes to mind.

The U.S. government used to keep a military presence at South Point, and many of the old structures are still standing. Local people live in these buildings, so it’s important to respect their privacy there.




Just a little farther is
Green Sand Beach
on the dry side.

Our last stop on the walking tour was the Pali O Ha`uki`uki. You may hear this spot called, “Broken Road”, but Kilohana says that Aunty Pele Hanoa, one of the local Kupuna, or respected elder, has asked that the proper name be used. In 1955, part of the cliff face was removed to make way for a road to a boat launching platform. The platform was destroyed 6 months later by high waves and weather. Be careful not to park too close to the edge of the cliff face. Occasionally, cars have been known to fall over.

If you are a more adventurous hiker, Kenny and Kilo will be happy to direct you to Papakolea Green Sand Beach at Mahana Bay. Green olivine, a semi-precious stone, gives this beach its unusual color. Resist the temptation to bring some home, and leave the beach for others to enjoy.

Lei Making with a Smithsonian Fellow




Hand made leis greet
visitors upon arrival.

One of the gems of this B&B is innkeeper, Kilohana. He is a master lei artist, and works with natural plants and with feathers. As a guest, you can take a half-day class. A fresh-flower lei class starts with a trip to the forest to learn respectful picking techniques. “Forest” seems an overstatement to describe the scrubby trees, but quickly you’ll learn to find delicate flowers, ferns and other plants. Returning to the house, you’ll sit on the porch with Kilohana, and learn how to weave and braid long, ropy leaves around the smaller, delicate flowers.

I took the feather lei class, in which we made a small keychain or ornament with feathers. I took to this immediately, and have continued my own feather lei and hatband work with Kilohana as my kumu or teacher.




The entrance to Kalaekilohana.

Kilohana is recognized locally and nationally for his feather art.  He received a Smithsonian fellowship, and at the Museum of Arts and Design in New York City recently exhibited three of his pieces; photos can be found in their latest publication. Kilohana has presented classes and demonstrations in many cities from coast to coast and is a regular participant in several cultural events locally.  He is a regularly scheduled presenter at the Hawai`i Volcanoes National Park throughout 2007. Born and raised in South Kona, he is a member of the highly regarded hula school, Halau Na Kamalei. He holds a degree in Hawaiian Studies from the University of Hawaii.

Kalaekilohana Amenities:

  • Private lanai with mountain and ocean views
  • Private bathrooms with large walk in rain showers
  • Solid hardwood floors
  • High speed broadband access
  • Posturepedic Cal king or queen size beds
  • A choice of pillow styles
  • High quality linen
  • Adjustable lighting
  • Hair dryer
  • Make up mirror
  • High quality shampoo, soaps  and conditioner
  • Sewing kit, shower cap
  • Luxury robes and booties
  • A closet with hangers
  • A complete self service laundry center

Full Table Service Daily

  • Fresh local fruits and produce
  • Homemade specialties
  • Rice and Poi (when available)

    Kenny goes the extra mile to accommodate your needs. Choose from a full Island Style breakfast, an early morning continental, or a bento to go. Let them know in advance and they’ll plan for your dietary needs.
If you are staying during the week, you are likely to enjoy Kanikapila, or music night, when friends drop by to play impromptu concerts. You might be here for Hawaiian language classes, which are drop-in and structured around the skill level of everyone there. Occasionally, Kilohana’s mother, Lehua, stops by to teach lauhala weaving, which is the art of using special plants for making mats, and her specialty, hats.

Details

Kalaekilohana is located one mile south of Highway 11 (aka “The Beltroad” or simply “the highway”) on the left. Web site: www.kau-hawaii.com or call 808/939-8052.

Tell Kenny and Kilo that Cymber and Bob sent you.

— Feature by Cymber Quinn, Jetsetters Magazine Hawaiian Islands Editor.


Other Area Attractions


Kalaekilohana B&B is a great leaping
off spot for visiting nearby attractions:
  • Hawaii Volcanoes National Park. Wonderful books have been written about this amazing landscape, so I’ll just mention it here.

  • Pu’uhonua O Honaunau National Historic Site, also known as the Place of Refuge. In ancient times, if you committed a wrong doing, you had the right to try to make it to the Place of Refuge. If you made it there alive, your debt was considered paid, and you were free to go. This sacred site is part of the National Parks system, and your annual pass gets you in for free.

  • South Kona and all its macadamia, coffee and fruit stands by the road side.

  • We like snorkeling and swimming at Ho’okena Beach, especially in the morning. Be aware of the ocean at all times. Currents can be strong. If you have questions, ask the locals. 

  • Wood Valley Buddhist Temple. This beautiful place is called Immutable Island of Melodious Sound, and is open to the public. Kenny and Kilo will give you a map and directions to get there. A $5.00 donation is requested of day guests. Be sure to take the old cane road, Kenny and Kilo recommend. It starts with a bumpy mile or so that will leave you wondering if you might have voided your rental car policy. Not to worry. The road opens into a smooth asphalt upper road with spectacular views and virtually no traffic, and ends at the Temple.

  • Na’alehu Farmers Market on Wednesday and Saturday mornings. Punalu’u Bakery, famous for its sweet breads, rolls and filled donuts.

  • Punalu’u Black Sands Beach, famous for its luxurious black lava sand. Same cautions about the ocean apply at this and all beach parks. Sea turtles congregate here, and it’s best to enjoy them from a distance.